The Capital Asset Pricing Model

April 15th, 2009

William Sharpe has written a lot about CAPM and its flaws. His book “Investors and Markets” talks a bit about it. Here’s an excerpt comparing Markowitz/CAPM to the Kenneth Arrow’s State Preference Approach:

William Sharpe posted:

Let me be careful, because I’ll get in trouble with Harry Markowitz because we have somewhat different approaches to this. But the crux of the matter is that Markowitz and the CAPM, in its original manifestation, assumed that people choose portfolios strictly on the mean and the variance of the portfolio return distribution-which is to say, you tell me two things about a portfolio an that’s all I need to know. What is its expected return and standard deviation? You give me those two numbers and I’ll choose my portfolio among a set of portfolios based on those two numbers for each portfolio. Markowitz assumes you are willing to do that and CAPM assumes everyone is willing to make portfolio decisions this way. Now why might that be true? There are two conditions under which it would be true. One is, every single portfolio you can even imagine has nice probability distribution, which, if you tell me the expected return and the standard deviation, I know the whole distribution, I know the probability of any possible outcome. And the easiest case for that is everything is the normal distribution we learned about in class.

So that’s one kind of world in which this would be a great assumption. The other kind of world in which it would be a great assumption is, “All I care about are those two numbers. I don’t care what the probability distribution looks like.” Now for this to be the case, I must have a particular kind of preference, which is called quadratic utility. So you have these two possible rationales for those approaches. But what we know is that people are increasingly coming up with investment products that have very non-normal distributions: hedge funds and protected products. You go down the list. And there are all these exotics, which, partly intentionally, have weird distributions, what’s called tail risk—small probability of a disastrous outcome. That’s the classic hedge fund approach. So the first rationalization doesn’t hold as well perhaps as it did 40 years ago, at least for some people in some cases. The second rationalization, the preference assumption, the quadratic utility, if you look at it, it doesn’t seem to conform with how most people really think about having bad things happen or good things happen.

For a number of years, I’ve tried to think about finance in terms of the State-Preference approach, to think of the future as one in which the world can be in a number of discrete states, and each one has a probability. An easy way to think about it is a spreadsheet. You’ve got a column in the spreadsheet, and each row is a different thing that could happen. Only one of them will happen, but you don’t know which one. The best you can do is say, “There’s a 10% chance it’ll be this row and an 8% chance it’ll be that row.”

“Tail risk” is obviously a major issue with CAPM, as he stated, as it assumes a normal distribution of returns. Really, most people are probably more worried about bubbles and geopolitical disasters than standard-deviation.

The state-preference approach doesn’t rely on a normal distribution, has simpler calculations (although it involves a LOT of calculations), and easier to relate to and understand the idea of risk.

A great book that goes over the theory of investments is A History of the Theory of Investments, by Mark Rubinstein.

Is the capital pricing model flawed

April 15th, 2009

Is the capital asset pricing model flawed?  Is risk defined by volatility? Or is it something more of which the model cannot capture correctly?

For those of you without the technical knowledge. CAPM assumes that beta, or the volatility of a stock, is defined by how correlated that stock moves with the market as a whole. If the beta is 1, it perfectly matches the market, -1, it perfectly does opposite of what the market does, and so on. This is used to define the rate of return on equity, which estimates the cost of capital to the firm.

But is that really risk? I mean, you can have a very volatile security with an expected return of 1%-100%, and I bet you almost anyone out there would love to own it. It’s volatile, but not risky.

Should risk be redefined? Something such as the possibility of a negative utility towards the holder?

I’m not alone in this either. Warren Buffet (whom should be worshipped) agrees and doesn’t ahere to this definition of risk either. In his 2006 letter to his shareholder’s he criticizes the Efficient Market Theory.

quote:

Let me end this section by telling you about one of the good guys of Wall Street, my long-time
friend Walter Schloss, who last year turned 90. From 1956 to 2002, Walter managed a remarkably
successful investment partnership, from which he took not a dime unless his investors made money. My
admiration for Walter, it should be noted, is not based on hindsight. A full fifty years ago, Walter was my
sole recommendation to a St. Louis family who wanted an honest and able investment manager.

Walter did not go to business school, or for that matter, college. His office contained one file
cabinet in 1956; the number mushroomed to four by 2002. Walter worked without a secretary, clerk or
bookkeeper, his only associate being his son, Edwin, a graduate of the North Carolina School of the Arts.
Walter and Edwin never came within a mile of inside information. Indeed, they used “outside” information
only sparingly, generally selecting securities by certain simple statistical methods Walter learned while
working for Ben Graham. When Walter and Edwin were asked in 1989 by Outstanding Investors Digest,
“How would you summarize your approach?” Edwin replied, “We try to buy stocks cheap.” So much for
Modern Portfolio Theory, technical analysis, macroeconomic thoughts and complex algorithms.

Following a strategy that involved no real risk – defined as permanent loss of capital – Walter
produced results over his 47 partnership years that dramatically surpassed those of the S&P 500. It’s
particularly noteworthy that he built this record by investing in about 1,000 securities, mostly of a
lackluster type. A few big winners did not account for his success. It’s safe to say that had millions of
investment managers made trades by a) drawing stock names from a hat; b) purchasing these stocks in
comparable amounts when Walter made a purchase; and then c) selling when Walter sold his pick, the
luckiest of them would not have come close to equaling his record. There is simply no possibility that what
Walter achieved over 47 years was due to chance.

I first publicly discussed Walter’s remarkable record in 1984. At that time “efficient market
theory” (EMT) was the centerpiece of investment instruction at most major business schools. This theory,
as then most commonly taught, held that the price of any stock at any moment is not demonstrably
mispriced, which means that no investor can be expected to overperform the stock market averages using
only publicly-available information (though some will do so by luck). When I talked about Walter 23 years
ago, his record forcefully contradicted this dogma.

And what did members of the academic community do when they were exposed to this new and
important evidence? Unfortunately, they reacted in all-too-human fashion: Rather than opening their
minds, they closed their eyes. To my knowledge no business school teaching EMT made any attempt to
study Walter’s performance and what it meant for the school’s cherished theory.
Instead, the faculties of the schools went merrily on their way presenting EMT as having the
certainty of scripture. Typically, a finance instructor who had the nerve to question EMT had about as
much chance of major promotion as Galileo had of being named Pope.

Tens of thousands of students were therefore sent out into life believing that on every day the price
of every stock was “right” (or, more accurately, not demonstrably wrong) and that attempts to evaluate
businesses – that is, stocks – were useless. Walter meanwhile went on overperforming, his job made easier
by the misguided instructions that had been given to those young minds.

After all, if you are in the shipping business, it’s helpful to have all of your potential competitors be taught that the earth is flat. Maybe it was a good thing for his investors that Walter didn’t go to college.

Does CAPM assume that the efficent market hypothesis is correct? Or is it simply a religion?

Is Beta dead?

Asset Rich, Cash Poor

April 14th, 2009

Aside from being a college senior not yet making a salaried income (hoping to get into market consultancy with my BS Psych), the major financial problem that myself and my family face is that we are well invested, but with old money, tied into assets that are difficult to mobilize without reaping horrible capital gains taxes. The company I was mainly invested in was a dog which I inherited after it grew to modern prices from a very low price - as such, capital gains taxes take a huge chunk of the money selling it. I’ve recently reshuffled quite a bit of it into other stocks that have much better growth numbers (General Electric, Emerson Electric, Procter & Gamble, and so further) that are firm growth but still yield dividends. I also did very well recently on Nintendo.

The problem I face, however, is that while I have a lot of money invested, I don’t have any cash on hand, really. I receive dividends but those don’t make for much and won’t pay off any investment into the stock in the timeframe I’m looking at holding investments. The Nintendo is unfortunately tied up in an irrevocable trust, or I’d have sold the investment and let the profit ride.

My parents are in a slump where the business isn’t pulling enough money and they’ve been liquidating for years, which is something I am not planning to get into. What I’m looking for and what I haven’t yet found is a way to work cash profit out of invested stock without liquidation - I somehow doubt there is a way to do this but it’s always worth asking.

Beyond investing in companies with high dividend yields, (the company the family owns is already very good for this), is there a way to make short-term profit from investments without attempting to day-trade or trade short-term? I have not discussed short-term trading options with my broker, but I don’t have the cash capital to work with that anyways at the moment nor do I really have the time to do my research. I’m really just looking to float the next year of school before I get a salaried position and can leave the invested wealth aside to play on its own, so to speak. Anyone else in similar situations? If so, how did you/are you dealing with it?

Let me see if I got this straight.

You have stocks that have been held for years. You think that you cannot sell them without large capital gains taxes. But you don’t say how long you’ve held them. IIRC, capital gains tax decreases the longer you hold a stock.

But then you say that you’ve “reshuffled” your inheritance into other stocks. Doesn’t that trigger a taxable gain?

Next, you’d like to know if there’s a way to make passive income from a stock without selling it. Other than dividends or some crazy investment scheme, I believe the answer to be no.

Then you reveal your investment timeline to be one year. That’s a bit risky to bet your income on the dividend yield of the stocks you own.

Here’s a thought: Why haven’t you moved your stocks into DRIP accounts? It sounds like your not making a whole lot of money on the dividends, but a DRIP account would allow you to reinvest those dividends into additional shares. If you don’t really need that money and you’re planning on holding onto those shares, a DRIP account may be what you need to “let it ride”.

Selling “covered calls” would be an option for you. An investor pays you a premium for the ability to purchase your shares at a certain price for a period of time. If the stock goes up beyond the strike price, they will purchase them from you at that price [trigging long-term capital gains tax]. If the stock doesn’t go beyond the strike price, then you keep the stock and the premium [less your broker’s fee].

Another possibility is to borrow on margin with your equities as collateral. Your brokerage account gives you a loan at a certain number of basis points above the nominal lending rate. Some brokerage houses will only let you buy equities, whereas others will allow you to take that money out as cash [I believe charlesSchwab allows this]. The brokerage will use your stock as collateral, and if the price of the stock drops sufficiently, will force you to sell to cover your loan.

If you posses shares of a different company/mutual fund that have declined in value, you could sell those and harvest the tax loss against the gain. You could then re-buy those same shares after 31 days using the IRS’s “wash-sale-rule”. You come out ahead if the price of the devalued shares don’t increase greatly within the timeframe you didn’t own them.

Finally, if you do sell the appreciated shares, you may want to specify a tax “lot”. If you pick the shares with the highest cost basis, then you will owe the least amount of tax in the near-term.

All of these options are advanced techniques: covered calls are tricky, the wash-sale-rule must be obeyed explicitly and your broker will charge you for all of these transactions. There are also rules about the tax lots that I won’t go into here. You should do a lot of research before utilizing any of them.

I’m not making any recommendation on what you should do, just enumerating the possibilities. Other people can chime in with their preferences. Personally, I think it would be easier to get student loans and use your investments to cover those loans in the future. It won’t be fun worrying about your margin account or covered calls while studying for exams.

Investment options for saving on a 6-9 month schedule

April 13th, 2009

In the next month, I will have my credit cards paid off (I am sure some of you know how amazingly good that feels), which means I will, for the first time, have a nice amount of investible income each month. In addition, I plan on becoming engaged soon, so I would like to put that most of that money into something fairly liquid (or something that will be fairly liquid in 6-9 months). After that, the next thing to save for is a home, so recommendations on less liquid investments (2-3 year plan) would also be helpful.

Here are my quick, rounded off, monthly numbers:

Income:
8,000/month after taxes

Monthly payments:
1300 rent
700 car/insurance (4.1% loan, 3 year term)
1000 student loans (3.2% rate, so I really don’t want to pay more than the minimum amount, unless I am completely missing something there)
200 utilities
1500 food/movies/going out with friends or girlfriend (I know this could be lower, but I like to eat healthy, which means expensive, and I eat out a lot with work)

Lets just say that leaves $3,000 a month to save (most months it will be somewhat more, some months will be somewhat less).

Question 1: What are good options for investing if I want to use that money in 6-9 months for a ring (I want to pay cash for the ring). I have seen some online savings accounts that will give around 5% return with a minimum balance of 5k, which is what I am planning on using, unless other people have a better idea.

Question 2: After purchasing a ring (and maybe a nice TV, since I still have my 27 inch tv from 1998), what are some investment options that I would be able to liquidate in 3 years when I want to buy a house? I have heard that a Roth investment has a provision where you can withdraw funds for a house payment, but I’m not that sure how it works. My job does not make any matching payments for a 401k, but would that still be a viable option for investing money that I need in a few years?

Caveat: Because of my job, people often speak to me about financial stuff as if I know what they are talking about. Please assume I know basically nothing about finance. I plan on actually hiring a financial advisor in the next year, but I would still like to hear other people’s options, if for no other reason so that I will know what the hell the guy is talking about.

It’s my view that you probably want a better size emergency fund before you invest. You have to take the outlook that the money YOU DO NOT HAVE A FORSEEABLE NEED for can be investable. The reason I’m able to generate the returns that I do is because I never take money out of my brokerage account and my profits generate more profits.

Basically: If you have an extra $10k lying around you dont need and dont want to see in a CD, invest it. Do not constantly put money in and take money out. That breaks discipline.

Your best options are mutual funds or individual stocks, I like mutual funds more because you dont have to pay attention to them. You can run them for a short term or long term and do with it as you please, its a hands free approach to investing.

A roth IRA allows you to take money out of your retirement for your FIRST HOME - thats it. I’m not exactly sold on the idea of taking money out of an account that generates money tax free in perpituity to buy a house that’s going to appreciate only 2-3% a year but that’s just me.

With 8k a month, your mAGI is probably too high to contribute to Roth IRAs [at least until you get married]. It sounds like your time horizon for the cash is relatively short so my recommendation would be an ING Savings Account or Vanguard’s Prime Money Market fund [VMMXX]. You could also try Vanguard’s California Tax Exempt Fund [VCTXX].

I store most of my cash in VMMXX through a Wells Fargo PMA checking account. You get 100 free trades a year with the PMA account as long as you have 25k of assets shared across your checking and brokerage account. Money market mutual funds aren’t technically FDIC backed although the better ones invest in U.S. Treasuries and Bank CDs which are relatively safe.

Roth IRA
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roth_ira

ING Direct Electric Orange
http://home.ingdirect.com/products/…=ElectricOrange

VMMXX
https://personal.vanguard.com/VGApp…&FundIntExt=INT

VCTXX
https://personal.vanguard.com/VGApp…&FundIntExt=INT

for money you need in 6-9 months, a savings account or money market fund are your best bet.

For the 2-3 year term, stock investing is still too volatile — the next 2 years could be great and nearly double your money… or be horrible and cost you 35% or more.

One thing to consider with CDs versus Money Markets/Savings Accounts that you might not be thinking about: interest rates change. The money market rate changes every day, the savings account rate changes whenever the bank feels like it. But your CD will pay the promised percentage interest all the way to the end. If rates go up, the money market is better. If rates fall, the CD is better. Again assuming you don’t need the money in the meanwhile.

VMMXX (Vanguard Prime Money Market) is a good choice as far as that goes.

As sherpa pointed out, Money Market Mutual Funds (not to be confused with Money Market Deposit Accounts offered by your bank) are not FDIC insured. They start out at $1 per share, and “strive to maintain” that share price. There is no guarantee from anybody that they will. That said, so far as I know, no US Money Market Mutual Fund has ever “broken the buck” — so far, every time it’s happened, the company running the fund has bailed the fund out. The Vanguard Prime Money Market makes its money by buying, among other things, corporate bonds. Typically, they buy debts that are due within the next 30-45 days.

Vanguard offers another Money Market Mutual Fund that invests in only U.S. Treasury bonds. It pays a bit less interest, though the interest is *generally* tax-deductible for state income tax (you still pay federal income tax).

If you have tolerance for a little bit of risk, you can look at a short-term bond fund — either corporate or treasury. They typically buy bonds with 1-3 year maturity. The value fluctuates every day. It is rare but not impossible to lose more than a small percentage of your investment. In exchange, they typically but not always pay a higher return. Right now, they’re damn near identical.

How Important is your Credit Score

April 11th, 2009

Lets say your credit score is like 500 (I think that is bad) but you are a doctor, can you still get a loan for a car or a mortgage? But lets say your credit score is like 800 but you are a McDonald’s Janitor, can you still get a loan or mortgage?

How does this credit score thing work compared to other aspects of your portfolio/job/history?

What is a score you always want to be above..?

If there are any other good points to make about credit scores and what-not, I’m open ears… err eyes.

The credit score is an assessment of risk, in theory, the lower the score the more risk the lender is taking on. Lenders counterbalance that risk by raising the interest rate of the loan. So a doctor with a low credit score can certainly buy a car but will have to put more money down and pay a higher interest rate. A janitor with a high credit score can still only buy within his means, he isn’t buying a Rolls Royce with a high credit score alone.

Saving For Retirement

March 11th, 2009

I started saving up for retirement/or something. I am currently a college student with a job, and I have been putting aside a fraction of my paycheck money each month. So far, I have just over $1K.
What should I do with the money? I have been looking at CDs, although I thought I would ask here for suggestions.

Are there any stable places to put my money for the long term (5 years) in which I can get some sort of return? Are CDs a good choice? What about bonds?

The first step would be to actually open a retirement account. Because I am assuming you do not have a lot of income currently, it may be best for you to open a Roth IRA rather than a traditional one due to the fact that the deduction for a contribution to a traditional IRA would not benefit you very much since you are in a low tax bracket. A traditional IRA contribution goes in pre tax (ie you deduct it from your gross income when you file your taxes) and is taxed when you withdraw the money; a Roth IRA contribution is made from after tax money (ie no deduction on your return) but the proceeds are not taxed when you take them out after reaching retirement age. If your work has an employer sponsored retirement plan though you should generally use this (especially if they match!).

However, if this is the sum total of your savings you should really think of this as an emergency savings account rather than retirement. Planning and saving for retirement is very important and it is great that you are thinking about it so early, but placing all your liquidity into a relatively inaccessible account can bite you in the ass if a major or unexpected expense rears its ugly head. If this is the case, you probably want to park the funds in a high interest savings account at ING or HSBC or someplace similar. This will keep them liquid and accessible and at least earn you a couple of bucks a month in interest.

It all depends on what you really want to do with it.

If you’re looking to save for retirement, and only retirement, you should look in to starting an IRA. The only problem is that you won’t be able to touch that money until you actually retire (unless you want to pay ungodly fees).

CDs might be a good choice, but not many institutions offer a good rate on CDs for only $1K. The promotional rates you see most places pushing lately (5-5.50%) are usually rates for $10K starting deposits. However, if you need the money for an emergency you’ll have to pay more fees to break the CD.

I really wouldn’t recommend bonds right now. I never really do, but that’s just me.

Really I’d recommend going with an online savings account. I myself have one at ING Direct (4.30%, $250 initial deposit). That way if you have any emergency the account is totally liquid, and it gives you a rate as good as a CD at most brick and mortar banks.

My advice is to first save up a buffer so you don’t pay interest on debt. The interest you will pay on debt is almost always higher than you will receive on savings. You should have a tiered buffer that you fill up in order of urgency and only after the earlier levels are filled should you start saving for retirement. The only exception is if you get matching contributions from an employer or some other great benefit.

Only after you have enough in savings to cover an emergency like car repair or home repair should you consider longer term assets like bonds or CDs. If you have to carry a balance on a credit card or take out a short term loan it will eat up all of the extra money you have gotten by putting your money in less accessable investments. It will also hurt if you have to pay penalties for accessing money from a CD or similar investment early.

Only after you have enough in investments that can be withdrawn in a few months to cover major expected expenses, such as buying a car, should you being using investment vehicles like an IRA. You will likely lose more money on interest on your car than you make by using an IRA.

Also, if you have a mortgage, it is likely to be a much better deal to put money towards the mortgage than most any other medium to long term investment you can find.

Can You Consolidate One Loan?

February 11th, 2009

I graduated college this past May, and I’m scheduled to begin repaying my student loan come November. I only applied for Financial Aid once, and I got a loan of $5,500. That’s my entire debt. The company handling the loan, Mohela, has been badgering me with offers to consolidate my debt, but they don’t seem to get the hint that this is my only loan, so there’s nothing to consolidate.

I’m going to call them to get this straightened out this week, but I wanted to hear if any of you had any idea why they’re pushing so hard for consolidating when it’s clear I only have one student loan. My only guess could be that they want me to consolidate my student loans with my credit card bills or something like that, but I’m not interested in doing that (for starters, I don’t even own a credit card).

So basically, what I want to know is, how do I tell them firmly to stop bothering me about consolidating, and why would they even be pushing for me to consolidate so much in the first place?

Whats the interest rate on your current loan, and what would be the new interest rate on the new loan.

They may be trying to get you to move up some %. Just stick with your current loan unless you can save money by lowering the interest rate.It’s more than likely a fishing expedition to try and drum up some new business but there is a decent chance that you may save some money if the current rates are lower than your previous. I doubt it though as if you went through the last 5 years without having a consolidation rammed down your throat you’d have to be hiding under a rock!

Give them a call and see what they can do, can’t hurt.

Renters Insurance Claim

January 31st, 2009

Basically, I want to know how exactly renter’s insurance would apply in a situation such as this. My landlord decided suddenly that she wanted to replace the carpets in my apartment, and I reluctantly agreed to let her. As a result of a number of factors, the people installing the carpet ended up damaging several pieces of furniture and some relatively expensive festival tickets are now missing. My landlord gave me the typical runaround, saying that stuff was already damaged and that I should just file a claim with my renter’s insurance… basically telling me to shove it and make someone else deal with it.

However, the total cost of the damage is probably <$300, and I was under the impression that a deductible for renter’s insurance would be higher than that anyway, not to mention the fact that it seems to me that she should deal with this problem in the first place. Needless to say I probably should have gotten renter’s insurance, but am I wrong in thinking that she should be the one to cover the damage caused by a service that she shoved into my house?

Unless you bought insurance from Joe’s Incredible Insurance Barn, any decent carrier would deal with this. That’s (basically) how renter’s insurance works: “My personal property was here / not broken, and now it isn’t because something outside of my control happened.”

Of course, the insurance carrier is most likely going to harass the landlord or carpet company’s insurance carrier for the actual payout, but the actual renter isn’t.

It isn’t unheard of to have a low or zero deductible policy, especially on renters insurance, because it tends to be ridiculously cheap to begin with.

But in any case, having the landlady summoned to small claims court is probably all it would take to get the problem resolved.

What Makes Mortgage Interest Rates Go Up and Down

January 31st, 2009

My wife and I are planning to start looking for a house to buy. We’re in no hurry, and may not end up buying for another 6-12 months, but want to be ready if a good opportunity comes along, so we’ve started getting pre-qualified for a mortgage and finding a buyer’s agent. We’ve talked to a mortgage broker who was highly recommended by several friends. Last week, she quoted us a 30-year fixed rate of 6.375-6.5% and 0.5-1 points (for a conforming jumbo loan with 20% down). This was better than the rate quoted by the banks and credit unions we talked to, so we had her send us an application. Yesterday, we got the loan application and the rate is up to 6.75% and 1 point. She said that rates had gone up, but we’re not locked into a rate until we find a house to buy so this number isn’t going to be our interest rate. However, we realized we have no idea what causes mortgage interest rates to go up or down.

The fed has been lowering the funds rate over the last year, but that doesn’t seem to have corresponded to lower mortgage interest. They raised the cap on conforming loans, but again with little effect. Are there systematic factors that determine mortgage interest rates, e.g. the stock market, the bond market, dollar strength, etc.? Or is it just a matter of the banks being freaked out by the subprime/credit crisis and not wanting to loan money for housing regardless of the credit risk? We’d really to understand the underlying factors better so we can try to form educated guesses on whether current rates are inflated or a good deal.

Most fixed-rate debt is quoted as a spread to the funding cost, which is almost always LIBOR and changes due to a complex number of things, among them the money market (i.e., the fed funds rate). You also have to consider credit spreads, which can widen or narrow based on sentiment in the credit markets. Corporate credit spreads have actually be compressing lately, but I think the most recent RMBS data I saw suggested that while residential mortgage defaults were trending sideways, they weren’t exactly improving (I think I read that we’re actually at a historic high for the number of people upside down on their houses).

Grant Money for a Startup

January 31st, 2009

There is likely a canned answer for this, but I couldn’t seem to find anything. I am starting a S-Corp in Saint Paul, MN. We are looking at buying a duplex to rent out (the particulars of the purchase are taken care of, and getting started does not look to be a problem right now). As it is, I am looking at putting 30,000 into starting this business (which will cover 25% of the purchase price of the property plus operating expenses to get started). This will not be my full time job, but a side business, as I have property managers all lined up.

The question is, does anyone know of business grants that I can look into? I know money does not grow on trees, but I have heard of some small businesses getting grants. We’re actually looking at purchasing vacant homes (which I think is good for the city), though I imagine if grants did exist for this kind of venture, they would be swooped up pretty quickly.

Does anyone have advice on where I can look to find said grants? Who to typically contact with the city?

I work at an SBA and we always tell people no. Unless you are disabled, a minority, a veteran, then its not worth your time looking for one. You can look into your city’s chamber of commerce on the off chance there is but don’t count on it. Instead, create a solid business plan and apply for a loan.